The sun is setting on the foothills of the Alps. Overseeing vast meadows with tiny lanes and lazy cows is the fairy-tale castle of "Mad" King Ludwig of Bavaria (Neuschwanstein). Having borrowed a bike from my hotel, I just soaked my imagination in that Romantic king's fantasy-come-true...and then soaked my body in a classic German spa (the Königliche Kristall-Therme) that enjoys a poolside view as grand as Ludwig's — or even better, considering it includes his inspiring castle. Biking through th
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